Services

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Gas tankless water heater = an endless hot water maker with no storage tank.

When you turn on a hot tap, cold water flows in → a powerful gas burner instantly heats it as it passes through a heat exchanger → hot water comes out continuously.

It only runs when you need hot water, so it saves energy and never runs out (as long as you don’t use too many taps at once).

Result: endless hot showers, smaller unit is wall-mounted and lasts 20+ years.

Heat pump water heater = an ultra-efficient electric water heater that works like an air conditioner in reverse.

Instead of making heat with electric coils, it pulls heat from the air around it (even basement or garage air), concentrates that heat, and moves it into the water tank.

It uses 60–70% less electricity than a regular electric water heater and gives you the same hot water, just smarter.

Result: same hot showers, much lower electric bill.

Electric water heater = a tank (usually 30–80 gallons) that keeps water hot 24/7.

Cold water enters the tank → two electric heating elements (like giant toaster coils) inside the tank heat the water → hot water sits ready at the top for whenever you open a tap.

When you use hot water, cold water refills and the elements turn on again to reheat.

Simple, reliable, no gas needed, but uses more electricity than a heat pump model.

Atmospheric gas water heater = the classic tank-style gas water heater.

It has a big insulated tank with a gas burner underneath that burns with regular air pulled in from the room (no fan). The flame heats the water from below, and exhaust gases go up a metal flue pipe in the middle and out through the roof.

Simple, cheap, reliable, and works even during power outages. 

Power-vent water heater = a tank-style gas water heater with a with a built-in fan.

The fan blows the exhaust gases out through a plastic pipe (PVC) that can run horizontally out a side wall instead of needing a tall chimney.

Result:  Works great in homes without a traditional flue.

 A water softener removes calcium and magnesium (the minerals that make water "hard") by swapping them for sodium using special resin beads. When the beads get full, it automatically cleans them with salt water and starts again. Result: no more scale, better soap lather, softer laundry and skin.

Carbon filtration uses activated charcoal to grab and remove chlorine, bad tastes, odors, and some chemicals as water flows through it — making water taste and smell clean. It does not remove minerals, salt, or most germs.

Iron filter = a tank that removes rusty (red/orange) iron from water.

It works by turning dissolved “clear” iron into tiny rust particles, then trapping those particles in a special filter bed (often using air, greensand, or other media). The rust gets stuck, clean water flows out.

Every few days it automatically backwashes — flushing the trapped rust down the drain so it’s ready to clean more water.

Result: no more orange stains in sinks, toilets, or laundry.

Sulfur filter = a system that removes the “rotten egg” smell from water.

It works by bubbling air through the water to turn smelly hydrogen sulfide gas into tiny solid sulfur particles, then traps those particles in a filter (often using special media). The stink and solids get flushed down the drain during automatic cleaning.

Result: water smells fresh again, no more rotten-egg odor.

Point-of-Use RO (Reverse Osmosis) = a small purifier usually installed under the kitchen sink.

It pushes water through a super-fine membrane that blocks almost everything:

• Heavy metals (lead, arsenic)
• Nitrates, fluoride, salt
• Bacteria & viruses
• Chemicals and pesticides

Clean water goes to a dedicated faucet; the bad stuff gets flushed down the drain.

Result: super-pure, great-tasting drinking water right at one tap.

Whole-home sediment filter = a big filter canister (usually at the main water line) that catches dirt, sand, rust flakes, and grit before they reach your faucets, showerheads, and appliances.

Water flows through a replaceable cartridge (5–50 micron), particles get trapped, clean water continues to the whole house.

Result: clearer water, no gritty stuff stays out of your pipes, washers, and water heaters.

Bathroom Faucet: The fixture on your sink that controls hot and cold water. It has handles or a single lever to turn water on/off and adjust temperature.

Drop-in Bathroom Sink: A sink that "drops" into a hole cut in the countertop. The rim of the sink sits on top of the counter, making it simple to install.

Toilet: The porcelain fixture you sit on to use the bathroom. It has a bowl for waste and a tank (or hidden system) that fills with water to flush.

Shower Valve: The control behind the handle in your shower that mixes hot and cold water and turns the shower on/off. (Often called the "cartridge" or "mixing valve" when replacing it.)

 Tub/Shower Pan and Surround:

• Pan: The waterproof base/floor of the shower or tub that catches water and directs it to the drain.
• Surround: The wall panels (usually 3 pieces) that go around the shower/tub area to keep water inside and make it look finished.

Bathroom Vanity Install: Putting in the complete sink cabinet unit. Includes setting the cabinet in place, attaching the countertop and sink, hooking up the faucet, and connecting the plumbing (drain and water lines).

Kitchen Faucet: The tap above your kitchen sink that lets you control water flow and temperature. It usually has a high spout (for filling pots), a pull-down or pull-out sprayer, and one or two handles to turn hot/cold water on and off.

Drop-in Kitchen Sink: A type of kitchen sink that drops into a hole cut in the countertop. The rim of the sink rests on top of the counter – easy to install and very common.

Garbage Disposer (or Garbage Disposal): A machine under the sink that shreds food waste into tiny pieces so it can safely go down the drain. You turn it on with a switch and feed scraps into the sink while water runs.

Refrigerator Water Line: A small plastic or copper tube that connects your fridge to the home’s water supply. It brings water to the ice maker and water dispenser in the door.

Gas Appliance Installation: Connecting a stove, oven, or cooktop that runs on natural gas or propane. Involves safely hooking up the flexible gas line, checking for leaks, and making sure it lights properly.

Dishwasher Installation: Setting up the dishwasher under the counter. Includes connecting the water supply line, drain hose (usually to the sink or garbage disposal), and plugging in or hard-wiring the power.

Laundry Faucet (or Utility Faucet): The tap in the laundry area that supplies hot and cold water to your washing machine. Usually has simple knob handles and threaded outlets for hoses.

Braided Washing Machine Hoses: Strong, flexible hoses with rubber inside and stainless-steel braiding outside that connect your washing machine to the laundry faucets (one for hot, one for cold). Much safer and less likely to burst than old rubber hoses.

Laundry Tub Installation (or Utility Sink): Putting in a deep plastic or fiberglass sink next to the washer for hand-washing, soaking clothes, or cleaning messy things. Includes mounting the tub, hooking up the faucet, and connecting the drain.

Washer Box (or Washing Machine Outlet Box): A recessed plastic or metal box built into the wall behind the washer. It holds the hot and cold water valves and drain connection in one neat spot so hoses stay organized and protected.

Outside hose spigot = a simple outdoor faucet (also called a hose bibb) attached to your house.

You turn the handle → cold water comes out for watering plants, washing the car, or filling a pool.

It has a special valve inside that stops water from freezing and bursting the pipe in winter.

Result: easy water access right in your yard.

Backflow preventer = a safety valve that only lets water flow one way — into your house.

It stops dirty or contaminated water (from sprinklers, hoses, or floods) from ever flowing backward into your clean drinking water pipes.

Think of it as a one-way door for water — in is OK, back out is blocked.

Deduct meter (or sub-meter) = a separate little water meter installed on a line that doesn’t go back into the sewer, like one that only feeds your garden hose, sprinkler system, or pool fill.

It measures how much water you use outside so that amount gets “deducted” from your sewer bill (since that water never goes down the drain).

Result: you only pay sewer charges on the water you actually use inside the house.

Main water shut-off valve = the big “master switch” for all water coming into your house.

It’s usually a lever or wheel valve located where the water line enters your home (basement, garage, or crawl space).

Turn it off → every faucet, toilet, and appliance instantly gets no water.

You use it for emergencies (like a burst pipes) or before major plumbing work.

Result: one turn stops all water to the whole house.

Pressure reducing valve (PRV) = a smart valve that automatically lowers super-high water pressure coming from the street (often 80–150 psi down to a safe 40–60 psi for your home.

It protects your pipes, faucets, and appliances from banging, leaking, or bursting.

Result: quieter plumbing, fewer leaks, and longer-lasting fixtures.

Hammer arrestor = a small shock absorber for your pipes.

When you quickly shut off a faucet or the washing machine stops, water suddenly slams to a stop and makes a loud bang (“water hammer”).

The hammer arrestor has a cushion of air inside that absorbs the shock so the pipes stay quiet and don’t shake or break.

Result: no more banging noises and safer pipes.

Water heater expansion tank = a small tank connected to your water heater that gives hot water a place to expand when it gets hotter.

When water heats up, it grows a little. Without the tank, that extra pressure can damage pipes or make the water heater drip.

The expansion tank has an air cushion that gently absorbs the extra water.

Result: no drips, safer pressure, and your water heater lasts longer.

Fixture stops (or angle/straight stops) = small shut-off valves under every sink, toilet, or appliance that uses water.

One quick turn of the little oval handle → only that faucet or toilet gets no water (everything else in the house stays on).

Result: easy to fix a leaky faucet or replace a toilet without shutting off water to the whole house.

Tubular waste system = the shiny white or chrome plastic pipes you see under sinks (P-trap, tailpiece, and extension tubes).

They carry used water from the sink or basin down to the main drain and keep a little water in the curved “P-trap” to block sewer smells from coming back up.

Result: simple, leak-free drainage that’s easy to take apart and clean when something gets clogged.

Braided supply lines = flexible hoses that connect your water shut-off valve to faucets, toilets, or dishwashers.

They have a rubber tube inside and a tough stainless-steel braid on the outside, so they’re strong, don’t kink, and last way longer than old plastic tubes.

Result: quick, leak-proof water connection that’s easy to install.

Gas line repair = fixing a leak or break in the pipe that carries natural gas or propane to your stove, water heater, or furnace.

A licensed plumber shuts off the gas, cuts out the bad section, installs new pipe or a flexible connector, pressure-tests it, and checks for leaks with soap solution.

Result: safe, no more gas smell or danger of fire/explosion. Always done by a pro — never DIY.

Water line repair = fixing a leaking or broken pipe that brings fresh water into your house or to a fixture.

The plumber shuts off the water, cuts out the damaged section (often burst or corroded) section, and joins new pipe (copper, PEX, or CPVC) with fittings or solder. Then tests for leaks.

Result: water flows again with no leaks or flooding.

Sewer line repair = fixing the drain pipes inside your house (under floors or in walls) that carry waste from toilets, sinks, and showers to the main sewer line.

Plumber opens a small access spot, clears the clog or replaces the broken section (usually with PVC or ABS pipe), then seals everything back up.

Result: no more slow drains, gurgling, or bathroom backups inside the home.

Battery Backup Sump Pump: A second pump (or add-on) that runs on a battery when the power goes out. It kicks in automatically so your basement stays protected even during storms and blackouts.

Grinder Pump: Like a sewage ejector, but with sharp blades that grind solid waste (like toilet paper and poop) into a slurry before pumping it uphill to the sewer. Used in homes far from the main sewer line.

Sump Pit: The plastic or concrete hole dug into the basement floor where groundwater collects. The sump pump sits inside it and pumps the water out before it can flood the basement.

Sump Pump: An electric pump that sits in a pit in your basement floor. It automatically pumps out water that collects there to keep your basement dry during heavy rain or flooding.

Sewage Ejector Pump: A pump in a sealed tank under the basement that pushes wastewater (from a toilet, sink, or shower below ground level) up into the main sewer line. Used when gravity can’t drain it.

Well Expansion Tank (or Pressure Tank): A metal tank connected to your well system that holds pressurized water and air. It prevents the pump from turning on/off too often and keeps steady water pressure in your house.

Well Tank Tee: A big T-shaped plumbing fitting that connects the pressure tank, pressure switch, pressure gauge, and sometimes a drain valve all in one spot. Makes the system neat and easy to service.

Well Pressure Switch: The small electrical box on your well pump system that senses water pressure. When pressure drops (someone uses water), it turns the pump on; when the tank is full, it turns the pump off.

Gas Line Repipe: Replacing old or leaky gas pipes (usually black iron or old steel) with new flexible CSST (yellow) or black iron pipe to safely carry natural gas or propane to your appliances.

Water Line Repipe: Replacing the old water supply pipes in your house (often old galvanized or polybutylene) with new PEX or copper pipes to fix leaks, low pressure, or bad-tasting water.

Sewer Line Repipe (Inside Only) Replacing just the drain pipes inside the house (under the slab or in the walls/ceilings) without touching the main sewer line that goes out to the street or septic tank. Usually done when the old cast-iron or clay pipes inside are rusted, cracked, or clogged, causing slow drains or backups in the home.